Lumber Calculator: Board Feet, Linear Feet & Pieces

Lumber Calculator

Work out board feet, total linear feet, and how many boards or pieces a job needs. Choose a nominal size or enter custom rough dimensions, add a waste factor, and see the exact board-foot math.

🪵Real Lumber Presets

📝Lumber Inputs

Used only when size is Custom. Board feet use rough nominal inches.

Board list mode multiplies board feet by this count.

Used for Linear feet and Pieces modes.

Deck gap or fence spacing added to each board width in Pieces mode.

Total board feet 0 includes waste factor
Board feet per board 0 one board, no waste
Total linear feet 0 boards × length
Boards / pieces 0 count needed

🔢Board Foot Snapshot

TThickness in
WWidth in
LLength ft
/12Board foot divisor

📏Nominal vs Actual Size Reference

NominalActual (in)Actual (mm)Board Ft / ftCommon Use
1x20.75 × 1.519 × 380.167Furring, stakes
1x40.75 × 3.519 × 890.333Trim, slats
1x60.75 × 5.519 × 1400.500Fence, shelving
5/4x61 × 5.525 × 1400.625Deck boards
2x41.5 × 3.538 × 890.667Wall studs
2x61.5 × 5.538 × 1401.000Joists, plates
2x81.5 × 7.2538 × 1841.333Floor joists
2x101.5 × 9.2538 × 2351.667Rim, stringers
2x121.5 × 11.2538 × 2862.000Beams, stairs
4x43.5 × 3.589 × 891.333Posts

📊Board Feet Per Standard Board

Size8 ft10 ft12 ft14 ft16 ft
1x42.673.334.004.675.33
1x64.005.006.007.008.00
2x45.336.678.009.3310.67
2x68.0010.0012.0014.0016.00
2x810.6713.3316.0018.6721.33
2x1013.3316.6720.0023.3326.67
2x1216.0020.0024.0028.0032.00

📐Pieces To Cover A Run

Run Length1x4 @ 3.5"1x6 @ 5.5"5/4x6 @ 5.5"2x6 @ 5.5"With 0.25" Gap
8 ft28 pcs18 pcs18 pcs18 pcs17 pcs (1x6)
10 ft35 pcs22 pcs22 pcs22 pcs21 pcs (1x6)
12 ft42 pcs27 pcs27 pcs27 pcs25 pcs (1x6)
16 ft55 pcs35 pcs35 pcs35 pcs34 pcs (1x6)
20 ft69 pcs44 pcs44 pcs44 pcs42 pcs (1x6)
24 ft83 pcs53 pcs53 pcs53 pcs50 pcs (1x6)

🗂Lumber Comparison Grid

ScenarioSizeLengthBoardsBoard FtLinear Ft
Stud wall pack2x48 ft20106.7160
Deck surface5/4x612 ft34255.0408
Fence run1x66 ft44132.0264
Floor joists2x614 ft18252.0252
Rim board order2x1016 ft10266.7160
Trim bundle1x410 ft30100.0300

Full Formula Breakdown

One boardBoard feet = (thickness in × width in × length in) / 144, which is the same as (T × W × L ft) / 12.
Nominal ruleThe board-foot standard uses nominal inches, so a 2x4 uses 2 and 4 – not the actual 1.5 × 3.5. This calculator follows that convention.
Total board feetTotal = board feet per board × number of boards × (1 + waste / 100).
Linear feetLinear feet = number of boards × board length in feet. Fasteners and cuts do not change this figure.
Pieces to coverPieces = ceil(run length × 12 / (actual width + gap)). Each partial board rounds up to a full piece.
Waste factorA 10–15% add covers off-cuts, defects, and end trimming so you do not run short mid-job.
Actual vs nominalCoverage math uses the surfaced actual width; board-foot volume math uses the nominal size for ordering.

📋Reference Values

ItemCommon ValueHow It Is UsedNotes
Board foot144 cubic inchesVolume unit for pricing12 × 12 × 1 inch
Waste factor10% to 15%Multiplies total board feetUse more for angles
Stud spacing16 in on centerSets stud count per wall24 in for some walls
Deck gap0.125 to 0.25 inAdded to board widthLets boards drain
Standard length8 to 16 ftSold in 2 ft stepsLonger costs more per ft

💡Practical Lumber Tips

Nominal tip: Board feet always use the called size, so a 2x6 counts as 1.0 board foot per running foot even though it measures 1.5 × 5.5. Order by nominal, cut by actual.
Coverage tip: For decking and fencing, add the drainage gap to each board width before dividing. A small gap across many boards can change the piece count by several pieces.

“With 2×4’s, how many are you really going to get? You grab a stack off the lumber aisle at Home Depot, hold it up, and realize it is shorter than what the tag says. This difference, between what you have and what the tag promises (is where many projects fall apart).

Beyond simply purchasing sufficient lengths, there is also waste, volume, and odd rules of accounting when it comes to selling timber. This gets everybody on the board foot, which does not account for the fact that wood shrinks when it’s planed down. So even if you purchase a two by four, it’s only going to be about an inch-and-a-half thick, but they still charge you like it’s two inches.

How to Buy the Right Amount of Wood

Volume is measured in terms of what the industry calls its nominal green size (the size before drying and milling). Why? Because once you mill and dry your wood into stock size, it’s going to be smaller. If you measure out your stock and then attempt to convert board feet using those smaller sizes, you’re going to believe you have fewer board feet than you actualy do.

The calculator above accounts for that automatically so you can forget all about trying to remember what each grade or species shrinks by.

And then there are those linear feet. That’s not inches; that’s just straight-up length. Twenty-eight-foot boards is one hundred sixty linear feet of material. It is simple math to help you figure out how far you’ll be able to stretch your stuff.

Now if you’re installing decking or some sort of fence, where a long run is called for, you have to start thinking in pieces and not just linear feet. Because yes, a 1/4 inch gap may not seem like a lot on paper but over a 40 foot run, it will affect the number of pieces required, making you come up short by Sunday afternoon.

There’s an invisible tax associated with all DIY projects… Waste. Kerf loss means you lose some material as part of the cut. Not every board comes home straight. Not every board comes home without a knot or two. Ten to fifteen percent added to your total is not pessimism; it’s insurance that you won’t have to make a second trip back to the yard.

Set that percentage based off how hard the cuts are and your own confidence level. Ten percent is usually enough if you’re doing simple, ninety-degree-angle framing. Bump that to fifteen or more if you’re cutting forty-five-degree miters for trim work, misaligned saw blades will ruins boards quickly.

But most people make mistake of calculating exactly what they need and buying just enough to fit (and they are surprised when they don’t!) They fail to realize how imperfect these products of nature are. One bad warp or nasty rotting edge will take a whole board off the table. Having some more allows you to cull through the pile and choose best stuff for faces and then use the weird ones for behinds or blocking or hidden framing. And it lets you have some options in case the plan doesn’t line up with the site conditions.

For example, if you don’t feel like running the whole calculator but just need to do a quick lookup, it’s handy having the reference table included with the tool. For instance, if you are shopping around and want to compare price quotes from various yards, the reference tables will show you common sizes and how many board feet per linear foot they equal. This can be particularly helpful with premium softwoods and hardwoods as some places may quote per board foot, and other places only sell by the piece.

The two by six happens to be exactly one board foot per lineal foot so that makes mental math a little easier in the aisle.

The takeaway: Accurate estimating is a great way to save yourself some stress and a few bucks. It avoids the “oh crap I’m out of 3/4″ board” headache half-way through the job. And it also helps prevent overspending, keeping your bank account happy. You don’t have to be a math wiz to estimate correctly. Just know the nominal size of the wood, add some buffer for error, and let the figures tell you what to order on the list. Not your gut feeling. You should of added extra if the wood is moddern or luxuriusly warped.

Lumber Calculator: Board Feet, Linear Feet & Pieces